Ancient Merv
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| ANCIENT MERV |
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Merv oasis ( 40 km from Mary) is one of the most ancient territories of Central Asia . There irrigation was first introduced. So it's not surprising that it was there that one of the largest cities of ancient world - Merv ( Margush, Margiana, Mary) was built on that territory . The origin of Merv is shrouded in mysteri e s . O ne fact is known for sure, though - the first written references to this city were found in Avestian chronicles of approximately the 8th - the 6th centuries B.C. T he chroniclers widely used bright epithets naming it "a soul of a king", "a mother of Khurasan cities " , and , finally, «the city on which the Universe rests " . Omar Khayyam, As - Samani , Imamaddin - Isphakhani and other great thinkers of the Middle Ages used to live there . The m odern ruins comprise at least five ancient settlements - Erk - Kala , Gyaur-Kala , Sultan-Kala , Abdullakhan - Kala and Bairamalikhan - Kala . The most part of them is heavily destroyed , some of them remind sagged hills but nevertheless Merv remain s one of the most unique historical monuments. Among the most interesting historical monuments is the mausoleum of Sultan Sandzhar Dar-al-Akhir ( 1 , 140 A .D.) whose name is connect ed to the prosperous period of the g reat Seljuk Empire. This amazing landmark is a lmost 40 m high . This medieval " skyscraper "'s originality is highlighted by its legendary dome constructed from two thin brick shells. Other well- known Merv landmarks are : Sultan- Kala , Shazriar - Ark Citadel , the ruins of Abdillakhan - Kala fortifications (the 15th century), the ruins of Bairamalikhan - Kala fortress and its towers , the ruins of Kyz-Kala fortress (the 6 th - 7th centuries), the mausoleums of Al - Khakim ibn Amir al- Jafari and Buraid ibn al - Khusein al - Islami ( the 15th century , a place of pilgrimage), Mukhammad ibn Zeid mausoleum (the 12th century), Talkhatan - Baba complex with the mausoleums of Talkhatan - Baba , imam Kasim, imam Shafi and imam Bakr of Seljuk epoch, the mosque of Jusuf Khamadani (the 13th century, reconstruct ed in the 19th century ), the ruins of Erk - Kala fortress ( the 6 th century), the ruins of a Christian temple and a Buddhist monastery in Gyaur - Kala (ancient Antiokhia Margiana) , the ruins of Beni - Makhan mosque (the 7th -12th centuries ), the high walls of fortress - like structures Big and Small Kyz - Kala , Kyz - Bibi mausoleum as well as numerous remains of baths, palaces, main halls and others. Other attractive landmarks are mosques of Dandankan and Talkhatan - Baba (the 12th century), a keshk ( a fortified house) Akuili - Koushuk (the 9th - 13th centuries), Kh aras- Keshk Castle (the 9 th -13th centuries), Durnali ancient settlements ( the 1st I- the 2nd ), Gebekly ancient settlement. Many archeological finds discovered during excavation s of ancient cities can be seen at Merv Historical M useum. Today Merv is entered into the list of the World L egacy of UNESCO as a well -preserved ancient center of the Great Silk Road. Historical monuments near Merv:
Abdullakhan-Kala (XV c.)
The fortifications were surrounded by huge (up to 30 m in width) moats filled with water. All this proves that Abdullakhan - Kala had an important strategic value and was perfectly designed. There were holes for gun shooting, galleries and other protective means. It made Abdullakhan - Kala an impregnable fortress.
Durnali settlement
The fortress had a regular rectangular shape ( roughly 180х160). On its corners and along the walls strong towers used to stand. The fortress could accommodate a plenty of townspeople behind the walls: the number of loopholes reached five hundred ; except for them there was a top level with castellations behind which the w arriors could hide. The inner territory of the fortress is practically empty . The only ruins of some big building can be seen close r to its center. The coins dated the 1st - 2nd centuries found t here testify to Durnali's age. Yekedeshik settlement
The constructions inside it are dated the 14th- 15th centuries . T he h ouse inside the cave was dug out - no materials were used. Some walls are furnished with shelves - probably for decoration purposes. Scientists consider that cave was a home for a plenty of families. By the way, "Ekedeshik" means " one hole " . It justifies the presence of the only entrance to the cave settlement. «Ekedeshik» is a unique and original ancient monument which has miraculously survived o n the territory of Turkmenistan . Erk-Kala (VI c.)Erk - Kala was the center of ancient Merv. The fortifications of Erk - Kala have sagged under earth drifts but nevertheless, have preserved their height and power. This distinguishes Erk - Kala from other fortresses. Now the height of the fortifications with steep slopes and precisely cut out towers reaches 25- 29 m. The fortress area is about 20 hectares . The fortress used to have a massive circular structure without entrance at first sight. Actually, the only entrance there was located on a hill (from the southern side of the fortress). Inside the ancient settlement can be seen the remains of the ruler's palace. From the north there was the city square (intended for big masses of people). Erk - Kala was called Margush for some time. GebekliThe a ncient settlement of Gebekly is related to the early Parthian period. It is located 32 km from Gyaur - Kala. This small ancient town "gr ew» near an abandoned village of Margians behind the fortifications of Antiochus ( Gyaur - Kala). Gebekly was surrounded by a square fortress having the only entrance in the form of a ramp. There the archaeologists found fragments of potter y and some jewelry which testify about the developed crafts . Gonur-DepeNot so long ago , in 19 90 s, archeologists open ed up a huge necropolis related to the 2,000n - 1,000 B.C. in Mary oasis. Th ere was a capital city now called Gonur - Depe with its palace and several temples capable of competing with the structures of Assyria and Babylon . But in this "capital" was not the residence of a ruler but most likely of a spiritual leader - the supreme priest. People honored him driven by their faith . In this sense Gonur was a spiritual and religious center of Margush country where people made pilgrimage s , brought gifts - fruits of the ir work. Whether Gonur was the only center of such nature is a n unanswered question. In Gonur - Depe entombments were found numerous utensils, mirrors, cosmetic vessels, silver ornaments, alabaster and ceramic vases and a variety of other objects whose age is estimated as 3,000 B.C Gyaur-KalaGyaur - Kala was on of the most powerful ancient structure with the area over 300 hectares. The walls of Gyaur - Kala are square with the hills of towers put at identical distance from each other. The length of each wall is about 2 km . Each wall had a gate. Seen from above are the remains of the roads leading to the four gates. The road from the south to the north goes directly from the southern gate to the ramparts of Erk - Kala opening way to the citadel and runs further around it to the northern gates. The ruins of Gyaur - Kala comprise the city of Margian Antioquia constructed in the traditions of antique architecture. The founder of the city was Selevkid king Antiochus Soter (280-261). Being in Marhiana he ordered surround the oasis with a 230 km wall and to found the city of Antioquia . The wall of Antiochus protected the lands of Merv from the desert sands and at the same time from aggressive nomads. Its remains can be found in the north of Mary oasis. Kharam-Keshk (IX-XIII c.)Kharam-keshk is s ingle c astle of dehkhan estate near Gyaur - Kala. It used to be a dwelling house in the 9th - 13th centuries. The remaining parts of the castle made of mud bricks are the half -sanded ground floor and the remnants of the second with corrugated walls. In the center of the castle there was a big square hall topped with a dome. It was connected to the other rooms of the castle. Kyz-KalaWhile travelling in Mary oasis you frequently see silhouettes of hills-fortresses which have stackedd from time. These are numerous manors-keshks of medieval feudal lords. The biggest of them are historical landmarks Major and Minor Kyz - Kala. Major and Minor Kyz - Kala are relatively small fortresses with corrugated, as if pleated, walls. They were put on earthy ramps with a slight inclination. The small windows are hidden the pleated walls. From above the walls were furnished with loopholes which were practically have not survived. The rooms on the ground floor were lit with the help of five windows. The staircase leading downwards passed through the arcuate corridor. The second floor layout can be only imagined by means of separate fragments. The second floor also had at least five rooms which were located around the inner yard. Minor Kyz - Kala stabds approximately hundred meters to the south from Major Kyz - Kala; its layout was the same but it has survived in far worse condition. The corrugated facade can be seen only on the eastern side of the structure. Muhammed-Ibn Zeyd ( XI c. )Mohamme ibn-Zeid Mausoleum is an outstanding monument of Sultan - Kala. It relatively small but arouses admiration by its original architectural solution. The interior of the mausoleum has a unique wall inscription in Arabian language. The letters skillfully carved from burnt bricks boldly stand out on the background of the vegetative pattern made of plaster. Its says that the mausoleum erected above the tomb of Mohammed ibn - Zeid, the representative of Shiit branch of Islam, the descendant of caliph Ali in the fifth generation in 1112-1113. As a descendant of the Prophet and consequently the contender to imamate, Mohammed ibn-Zeid headed the revolt against Arabian caliphs Omeyads in the 8th century. Shiits who supported him proclaimed ibn-Zeid imam but in ten months the revolt was severely suppressed and Mohammed ibn-Zeid was killed. His body was crucified on a cross in Kufa; his head was sent to caliph in Damascus . First, instead the mausoleum there was a small tomb with ibn-Zeid's head in it but gradually it turned into the magnificent architectural complex known to the entire Muslim world as Mohammed ibn-Zeid Mausoleum and is by right recognized as one of the best examples of Islamic architecture. The mausoleum is topped with domes, one of which higher than the others. The architectural style of the 12th century monument is amazing in its harmony and simplicity. Sultan-Kala ( XI c.)In the 11th -12th centuries Merv became the capital of Great Seljuk state and reached the highest prosperity. By the order of Seljuk sultan Melik-shakh the city was surrounded by a fortification and moat. This fortress with the area of over 400 hectares is known as Sultan - Kala - the Fortress of Sultans. In the northeastern part of Sultan - Kala Shakhriar- ark citadel with palace complexes of sultans, administration buildings and a military barracks - was constructed. Sultan Sanjar (XI c.)The most majestic architectural monument of Merv is Sultan Sandzhar Mausoleum also known as 'Dar-al-Akhyre" (" The Other World"). It vividly reflects the greatest achievements and prosperity of Seljuks. Sultan Sandzhar Mausoleum is located in the center of ancient settlement of Sultan - Kala. Nearby there are big monumental buildings - the palaces of Seljuk rulers and a mosque. Sultan Sandzhar Mausoleum is a true medieval skyscraper of cubic shape crowned by a two-level dome with turquoise encasement. Under the dome run three-level through galleries in the form of alternating openwork arches. The dome symbolized the firmament and "floated" in the air. The architecture of Sultan Sandzhar Mausoleum amazes with harmony and symmetry of proportions. Its walls are thick at the base. The overall wall length is 27 meters . The height of the mausoleum is 38 m. The mausoleum was constructed by the order of Sultan Muizeddin Sandzhar. He was buried in 1157. However, in 1221 when Mongolian armies besieged Merv the remains of the sultan were reburied in an unknown time and place. So there is emptiness under the tombstone of the mausoleum. But the Arabian inscription on its facade says: "This place is ennobled by the remains of the one who was called Sultan Sandzhar from the descendants of Turks-Seljuks... He was Alexander the Great of his time; he was the patron of scientists and poets and was accepted by Islamic world in the state of prosperity and happiness owing to sciences and arts". The mausoleum is a place of pilgrimage of thousands of believers let alone the у fact that it is the main attraction for foreign tourists. By the way, there is a legend of Sultan Sandzhar Mausoleum … «once upon a time he fell in love with a heavenly magic woman - peri. In reply to his proposal the peri said: "I can be yours on the condition you fulfill my three requests. The first: you can't embrace my waist. The second: you are not allowed to look at my feet when I run. The third: you can't watch me brushing my hair. Sultan Sandzhar accepted the conditions and married the peri. But his curiosity was so strong that he broke all his three promises. When he embraced the fine maiden's waist he found that peri had no bones. When he looked at her feet when she was running the sultan understood that peri was flying above the land and finally he discovered that the magic woman had to remove her head in order to brush her hair. Having learned about the broken promises the peri got terribly; she turned into a white bird, and soared high in the sky. Sultan Sandzhar tearfully begged her: "I shall die if I don't see you again". Disappearing in clouds the bird replied: «If you want to see me, you should build the highest and the most beautiful building in the center of the city. Do not forget to leave a hole in the dome. Every Friday I shall look inside and you will see me. So it was because of the peri that this mausoleum was built". Talkhatan-baba (XI c.)30 km from Old Merv is a medieval settlement Tal k hatan. There on the local cemetery Talkhatan - Baba Mosque was constructed in the Middle Ages. The mosque looks like a high regular rectangular. It does not have traditional canopies or columns. The three sides of the mosque are absolutely blank walls. But the main facade is marked by three arches. The middle arch is the widest. It corresponds to the central compartment of a building. The t wo smaller ones correspond to the building's sides . Thus, the mosque is as though divided by arches into three compartments. Equilibrium and harmony are enhanced by the bright ornamentation of the walls and homogeneity of external and inner decor with application of burnt bricks . Yusuf Khamadani (XIII c.)This complex was built on the burial site of Abu-Yakub Yusuf ibn Ayub born in the city of Hamadan (western Iran ). Above his tomb the mausoleum, which have not survived, was erected. The destroyed structure was partially restored and reconstructed in the 19th century. The tomb of the dervish is symbolize вин a crypt from black marble decorated with a floral ornament and inscriptions. There is a chapel in the western corner of the mausoleum with central aivan. It is the basic part of the complex. Today Yusuf Khamadani mosque is an important Muslim temple, the place of worshipping. Aivans of AskhabsThis poetical name was given to the mausolean complex of the so-called Askhabs - the "associates" of P rophet Mohammed: Bureid ibn Al Khusseib Al-Aslami and Al-Khakim ibn Amr Al-Gifari. After death of Askhabs their tomb s became local sanctuaries. In the 15th c entury Timurids constructed a religious complex around them . The t ombs from black marble are decorated with exquisite relief carving with vegeta tion ornaments and inscriptions. They tower in the center of the mausoleum. Behind the tombs two restored aivans are located. They stand side by side and are oriented exactly to the south . On the photos of the late 19th century it is clearly seen that their original height was abut 12 meters and they were decorated by blue and turquoise tiles. In the middle of the back wall of the mausoleum the word "ALLAH" in Kufi is written, and on the side s there are several squares positioned diagonally. The t ombs are still the place of worshipping. This is why near the aivans the sites for reception of pilgrims with open-air cooking facilities and a covered water storage constructed at the same time were provided. Akuili-Koushuk2 km from the ancient settlement of Durnali are the rulings of a medieval keshk Akuili-Koushuk. It is а one of a few well -preserved castles of that period. The p remises o n the ground floor are almost al l intact; the second floor is half destroyed. Keshk is of a rectangular form and made of mud bricks . The e xternal walls of the second floor are corrugated. In the center of the keshk is a square hall too levels high. On the center from the hall on the left and on the right there are five rooms, both on the first and on the second floors. |
Abdullakhan - Kala fortress is connected with the name of Tamerlane's son Shakhrukh. It was one of his first constructions on the territory of New Merv . It was completed very quickly. From outside the fortress was lined with mud bricks, the inner space was finished with little square bricks. The walls were furnished with ledges. 44 watchtowers of bended shapes crowned the fortress.
The ancient settlement of Durnali is located at 25 km from Gyaur - Kala Fortress. Th ere you can see numerous ruins of the 9th -12th - centur y structures. However , the settlement has even more ancient history. Once there had been a major P arthian city surrounded by powerful fortress which was restored in the Middle Ages.
This cave was mentioned in many Turkmen legends and tales. Some of them say that caravans of camels going in two lines could enter and exit the cave. It is hard to prove this now . However, it has been proved that the cave was formed inside of a hill.
