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18 km to the west of Ashgabat can be found to be towering ruins of Nissa the capital city of ancient Parthian state which existed between 1,000 B.C. and 1,000 A .D. In the third century B.C. New Nissa was a capital of Parthian state, and Old Nissa fortress was considered an imperial residence.

Old Nissa was rich in temples and palaces . There was also the treasury, huge wine warehouses there. The fortifications were 8- 9 meters thick in the base and were reinforced by 43 rectangular towers.

During the time when Parthian Empire was a world power Old Nissa was called Mitridatkert named after King Mitridat I (171-138 B.C.) who ordered to build the city. Later on the rulers of Parthia transferred the capital to Minor Asia but the special attitude toward Old Nissa remained: There were tombs of the ruling Arsakid dynasty members, in times of great feasts the kings arrived in Nissa for sacrifice ceremonies.

In the year of 226 Parthia ceased to exist and Artashid, the former representative of Arsakid dynasty founded a new state led by Sasanid dynasty. Hoping to eradicate the memories of everything connected with Parthian rulers he ordered to destroy Old Nissa. Arsakid family place was plundered and turned into ruins. Although it was revived a few centuries later, when Nissa became a part of Arabian caliphate, it did live up to its former powerful position.

Today only the finds of archeologists testify about Mitridatokert's former majesty - fine horn-shaped ivory vessels ( ritons ), unique documents of the 2nd - 1st centuries B.C. written by means of a brush on clay fragments, amazing white marble sculptures etc.

The latest find in Old Nissa is a unique fresco fragment - a genuine masterpiece of Parthian painting.

By the government decree Nissa was declared an archeological reserve of state significance is a candidate to be included into the list of "World Legacy" as one of the most interesting historical landmarks of ancient Oriental states.

Merv oasis ( 40 km from Mary) is one of the most ancient territories of Central Asia. There irrigation was first introduced. So it's not surprising that it was there that one of the largest cities of ancient world - Merv (Margush, Margiana, Mary) was built on that territory. The origin of Merv is shrouded in mysteries . One fact is known for sure, though - the first written references to this city were found in Avestian chronicles of approximately the 8th - the 6th centuries B.C. The chroniclers widely used bright epithets naming it "a soul of a king", "a mother of Khurasan cities ", and , finally, «the city on which the Universe rests ". Omar Khayyam, As - Samani , Imamaddin - Isphakhani and other great thinkers of the Middle Ages used to live there.

The modern ruins comprise at least five ancient settlements - Erk - Kala, Gyaur-Kala, Sultan-Kala , Abdullakhan - Kala and Bairamalikhan - Kala . The most part of them is heavily destroyed, some of them remind sagged hills but nevertheless Merv remains one of the most unique historical monuments. Among the most interesting historical monuments is the mausoleum of Sultan Sandzhar Dar-al-Akhir ( 1 , 140 A .D.) whose name is connected to the prosperous period of the great Seljuk Empire. This amazing landmark is almost 40 m high. This medieval "skyscraper”'s originality is highlighted by its legendary dome constructed from two thin brick shells.

Other well- known Merv landmarks are: Sultan- Kala, Shazriar - Ark Citadel, the ruins of Abdillakhan - Kala fortifications (the 15th century), the ruins of Bairamalikhan - Kala fortress and its towers, the ruins of Kyz-Kala fortress (the 6th - 7th centuries), the mausoleums of Al - Khakim ibn Amir al- Jafari and Buraid ibn al - Khusein al - Islami ( the 15th century, a place of pilgrimage), Mukhammad ibn Zeid mausoleum (the 12th century), Talkhatan - Baba complex with the mausoleums of Talkhatan - Baba , imam Kasim, imam Shafi and imam Bakr of Seljuk epoch, the mosque of Jusuf Khamadani (the 13th century, reconstructed in the 19th century ), the ruins of Erk - Kala fortress (the 6th century), the ruins of a Christian temple and a Buddhist monastery in Gyaur - Kala (ancient Antiokhia Margiana), the ruins of Beni - Makhan mosque (the 7th -12th centuries ), the high walls of fortress - like structures Big and Small Kyz - Kala, Kyz - Bibi mausoleum as well as numerous remains of baths, palaces, main halls and others .

Today Merv is entered into the list of the World L egacy of UNESCO as a well -preserved ancient center of the Great Silk Road.

Historical monuments near Merv:

• Abdullakhan - Kala (XV c.)
• Akuili - Koushuk (IX-XIII c.)
• Durnali Settlement
• Ekedeshik Settlement
• Erk-Kala (VI c.)
• Gebekly Settlement
• Gonur-Depe
• Gyaur-Kаla
• Kharam - Keshk (IX-XIII c.)
• Kyz-Kala
• Mohammed ibn-Zeid ( XI c. )
• Sultan-Kala ( XI c.)
• Sultan Salnjar (XI c.)
• Talhatan-baba (XI c.)
• Yusuf Khamadani (XIII c.)
• Aivans of Askhabs

Abdullakhan-Kala (XV c.)

КAbdullakhan - Kala fortress is connected with the name of Tamerlane's son Shakhrukh. It was one of his first constructions on the territory of New Merv. It was completed very quickly. From outside the fortress was lined with mud bricks, the inner space was finished with little square bricks. The walls were furnished with ledges. 44 watchtowers of bended shapes crowned the fortress.

The fortifications were surrounded by huge (up to 30 m in width) moats filled with water. All this proves that Abdullakhan - Kala had an important strategic value and was perfectly designed. There were holes for gun shooting, galleries and other protective means. It made Abdullakhan - Kala an impregnable fortress.

Durnali settlement

The ancient settlement of Durnali is located at 25 km from Gyaur - Kala Fortress. Th ere you can see numerous ruins of the 9th -12th - centur y structures. However, the settlement has even more ancient history. Once there had been a major Parthian city surrounded by powerful fortress which was restored in the Middle Ages.

The fortress had a regular rectangular shape ( roughly 180х160). On its corners and along the walls strong towers used to stand. The fortress could accommodate a plenty of townspeople behind the walls: the number of loopholes reached five hundred ; except for them there was a top level with castellations behind which the w arriors could hide.

The inner territory of the fortress is practically empty. The only ruins of some big building can be seen close r to its center.

The coins dated the 1st - 2nd centuries found t here testify to Durnali's age.

Yekedeshik settlement

This cave was mentioned in many Turkmen legends and tales. Some of them say that caravans of camels going in two lines could enter and exit the cave. It is hard to prove this now. However, it has been proved that the cave was formed inside of a hill.

The constructions inside it are dated the 14th- 15th centuries . The house inside the cave was dug out - no materials were used. Some walls are furnished with shelves - probably for decoration purposes. Scientists consider that cave was a home for a plenty of families. By the way, "Ekedeshik" means " one hole ". It justifies the presence of the only entrance to the cave settlement.

«Ekedeshik» is a unique and original ancient monument which has miraculously survived o n the territory of Turkmenistan.

Erk-Kala (VI c.)

Erk - Kala was the center of ancient Merv. The fortifications of Erk - Kala have sagged under earth drifts but nevertheless, have preserved their height and power. This distinguishes Erk - Kala from other fortresses. Now the height of the fortifications with steep slopes and precisely cut out towers reaches 25- 29 m.

The fortress area is about 20 hectares. The fortress used to have a massive circular structure without entrance at first sight. Actually, the only entrance there was located on a hill (from the southern side of the fortress). Inside the ancient settlement can be seen the remains of the ruler's palace. From the north there was the city square (intended for big masses of people). Erk - Kala was called Margush for some time.

Gebekli

The ancient settlement of Gebekly is related to the early Parthian period. It is located 32 km from Gyaur - Kala. This small ancient town grew near an abandoned village of Margians behind the fortifications of Antiochus ( Gyaur - Kala).

Gebekly was surrounded by a square fortress having the only entrance in the form of a ramp. There the archaeologists found fragments of potter y and some jewelry which testify about the developed crafts.

Gonur-Depe

Not so long ago , in 19 90 s, archeologists open ed up a huge necropolis related to the 2,000n - 1,000 B.C. in Mary oasis. Th ere was a capital city now called Gonur - Depe with its palace and several temples capable of competing with the structures of Assyria and Babylon. But in this "capital" was not the residence of a ruler but most likely of a spiritual leader - the supreme priest. People honored him driven by their faith . In this sense Gonur was a spiritual and religious center of Margush country where people made pilgrimages, brought gifts - fruits of the ir work. Whether Gonur was the only center of such nature is a n unanswered question.

In Gonur - Depe entombments were found numerous utensils, mirrors, cosmetic vessels, silver ornaments, alabaster and ceramic vases and a variety of other objects whose age is estimated as 3,000 B.C

Gyaur-Kala

Gyaur - Kala was on of the most powerful ancient structure with the area over 300 hectares. The walls of Gyaur - Kala are square with the hills of towers put at identical distance from each other.

The length of each wall is about 2 km. Each wall had a gate. Seen from above are the remains of the roads leading to the four gates. The road from the south to the north goes directly from the southern gate to the ramparts of Erk - Kala opening way to the citadel and runs further around it to the northern gates. The ruins of Gyaur - Kala comprise the city of Margian Antioquia constructed in the traditions of antique architecture. The founder of the city was Selevkid king Antiochus Soter (280-261). Being in Marhiana he ordered surround the oasis with a 230 km wall and to found the city of Antioquia.

The wall of Antiochus protected the lands of Merv from the desert sands and at the same time from aggressive nomads. Its remains can be found in the north of Mary oasis.

Kharam-Keshk (IX-XIII c.)

Kharam-keshk is s ingle castle of dehkhan estate near Gyaur - Kala. It used to be a dwelling house in the 9th - 13th centuries.

The remaining parts of the castle made of mud bricks are the half -sanded ground floor and the remnants of the second with corrugated walls. In the center of the castle there was a big square hall topped with a dome. It was connected to the other rooms of the castle.

Kyz-Kala

While travelling in Mary oasis you frequently see silhouettes of hills-fortresses which have stackedd from time. These are numerous manors-keshks of medieval feudal lords. The biggest of them are historical landmarks Major and Minor Kyz - Kala.

Major and Minor Kyz - Kala are relatively small fortresses with corrugated, as if pleated, walls. They were put on earthy ramps with a slight inclination. The small windows are hidden the pleated walls. From above the walls were furnished with loopholes which were practically have not survived.

The rooms on the ground floor were lit with the help of five windows. The staircase leading downwards passed through the arcuate corridor. The second floor layout can be only imagined by means of separate fragments. The second floor also had at least five rooms which were located around the inner yard.

Minor Kyz - Kala stabds approximately hundred meters to the south from Major Kyz - Kala; its layout was the same but it has survived in far worse condition. The corrugated facade can be seen only on the eastern side of the structure.

Muhammed-Ibn Zeyd ( XI c. )

Mohamme ibn-Zeid Mausoleum is an outstanding monument of Sultan - Kala. It relatively small but arouses admiration by its original architectural solution. The interior of the mausoleum has a unique wall inscription in Arabian language. The letters skillfully carved from burnt bricks boldly stand out on the background of the vegetative pattern made of plaster. Its says that the mausoleum erected above the tomb of Mohammed ibn - Zeid, the representative of Shiit branch of Islam, the descendant of caliph Ali in the fifth generation in 1112-1113.

As a descendant of the Prophet and consequently the contender to imamate, Mohammed ibn-Zeid headed the revolt against Arabian caliphs Omeyads in the 8th century. Shiits who supported him proclaimed ibn-Zeid imam but in ten months the revolt was severely suppressed and Mohammed ibn-Zeid was killed. His body was crucified on a cross in Kufa; his head was sent to caliph in Damascus. First, instead the mausoleum there was a small tomb with ibn-Zeid's head in it but gradually it turned into the magnificent architectural complex known to the entire Muslim world as Mohammed ibn-Zeid Mausoleum and is by right recognized as one of the best examples of Islamic architecture.

The mausoleum is topped with domes, one of which higher than the others. The architectural style of the 12th century monument is amazing in its harmony and simplicity.

Sultan-Kala ( XI c.)

In the 11th -12th centuries Merv became the capital of Great Seljuk state and reached the highest prosperity. By the order of Seljuk sultan Melik-shakh the city was surrounded by a fortification and moat.

This fortress with the area of over 400 hectares is known as Sultan - Kala - the Fortress of Sultans. In the northeastern part of Sultan - Kala Shakhriar- ark citadel with palace complexes of sultans, administration buildings and a military barracks - was constructed.

Sultan Sanjar (XI c.)

The most majestic architectural monument of Merv is Sultan Sandzhar Mausoleum also known as 'Dar-al-Akhyre" (" The Other World"). It vividly reflects the greatest achievements and prosperity of Seljuks. Sultan Sandzhar Mausoleum is located in the center of ancient settlement of Sultan - Kala. Nearby there are big monumental buildings - the palaces of Seljuk rulers and a mosque.

Sultan Sandzhar Mausoleum is a true medieval skyscraper of cubic shape crowned by a two-level dome with turquoise encasement. Under the dome run three-level through galleries in the form of alternating openwork arches. The dome symbolized the firmament and "floated" in the air. The architecture of Sultan Sandzhar Mausoleum amazes with harmony and symmetry of proportions. Its walls are thick at the base. The overall wall length is 27 meters. The height of the mausoleum is 38 m.

The mausoleum was constructed by the order of Sultan Muizeddin Sandzhar. He was buried in 1157. However, in 1221 when Mongolian armies besieged Merv the remains of the sultan were reburied in an unknown time and place. So there is emptiness under the tombstone of the mausoleum.

But the Arabian inscription on its facade says: "This place is ennobled by the remains of the one who was called Sultan Sandzhar from the descendants of Turks-Seljuks... He was Alexander the Great of his time; he was the patron of scientists and poets and was accepted by Islamic world in the state of prosperity and happiness owing to sciences and arts".

The mausoleum is a place of pilgrimage of thousands of believers let alone theу fact that it is the main attraction for foreign tourists.

By the way, there is a legend of Sultan Sandzhar Mausoleum … «once upon a time he fell in love with a heavenly magic woman - peri. In reply to his proposal the peri said: "I can be yours on the condition you fulfill my three requests. The first: you can't embrace my waist. The second: you are not allowed to look at my feet when I run. The third: you can't watch me brushing my hair. Sultan Sandzhar accepted the conditions and married the peri. But his curiosity was so strong that he broke all his three promises. When he embraced the fine maiden's waist he found that peri had no bones. When he looked at her feet when she was running the sultan understood that peri was flying above the land and finally he discovered that the magic woman had to remove her head in order to brush her hair. Having learned about the broken promises the peri got terribly; she turned into a white bird, and soared high in the sky. Sultan Sandzhar tearfully begged her: "I shall die if I don't see you again". Disappearing in clouds the bird replied: «If you want to see me, you should build the highest and the most beautiful building in the center of the city. Do not forget to leave a hole in the dome. Every Friday I shall look inside and you will see me. So it was because of the peri that this mausoleum was built".

Talkhatan-baba (XI c.)

30 km from Old Merv is a medieval settlement Talkhatan. There on the local cemetery Talkhatan - Baba Mosque was constructed in the Middle Ages. The mosque looks like a high regular rectangular. It does not have traditional canopies or columns.

The three sides of the mosque are absolutely blank walls. But the main facade is marked by three arches. The middle arch is the widest. It corresponds to the central compartment of a building. The two smaller ones correspond to the building's sides. Thus, the mosque is as though divided by arches into three compartments. Equilibrium and harmony are enhanced by the bright ornamentation of the walls and homogeneity of external and inner decor with application of burnt bricks.

Yusuf Khamadani (XIII c.)

This complex was built on the burial site of Abu-Yakub Yusuf ibn Ayub born in the city of Hamadan (western Iran ). Above his tomb the mausoleum, which have not survived, was erected.

The destroyed structure was partially restored and reconstructed in the 19th century. The tomb of the dervish is symbolize вин a crypt from black marble decorated with a floral ornament and inscriptions. There is a chapel in the western corner of the mausoleum with central aivan. It is the basic part of the complex.

Today Yusuf Khamadani mosque is an important Muslim temple, the place of worshipping.

Aivans of Askhabs

This poetical name was given to the mausolean complex of the so-called Askhabs - the "associates" of Prophet Mohammed: Bureid ibn Al Khusseib Al-Aslami and Al-Khakim ibn Amr Al-Gifari.

After death of Askhabs their tomb s became local sanctuaries. In the 15th c entury Timurids constructed a religious complex around them. The t ombs from black marble are decorated with exquisite relief carving with vegeta tion ornaments and inscriptions. They tower in the center of the mausoleum. Behind the tombs two restored aivans are located. They stand side by side and are oriented exactly to the south. On the photos of the late 19th century it is clearly seen that their original height was abut 12 meters and they were decorated by blue and turquoise tiles. In the middle of the back wall of the mausoleum the word "ALLAH" in Kufi is written, and on the side s there are several squares positioned diagonally.

The tombs are still the place of worshipping. This is why near the aivans the sites for reception of pilgrims with open-air cooking facilities and a covered water storage constructed at the same time were provided.

Akuili-Koushuk

2 km from the ancient settlement of Durnali are the rulings of a medieval keshk Akuili-Koushuk. It is а one of a few well -preserved castles of that period. The p remises o n the ground floor are almost al l intact; the second floor is half destroyed.

Keshk is of a rectangular form and made of mud bricks. The e xternal walls of the second floor are corrugated. In the center of the keshk is a square hall too levels high. On the center from the hall on the left and on the right there are five rooms, both on the first and on the second floors.

Kunya - Urgench. Today it is an architectural reserve (480 km to the north from Ashgabat). In the past it was the ancient capital of Northern Khoresm in the first century A.D. In the middle of the eighth century it was conquered by Arabs and in the year of 995 it was renamed Gurgandzh and became the residence of Khorezm Shah and the second-largest city after Bukhara - the capital of Samanid Empire.

Being a major cultural and shopping center during the Middle Ages it gave shelter to Ibn-Sino , Beruni and other well - known thinkers of that time. In 1221 the city regarded as "the heart of Islam" rebelled against Genghis Khan and was destroyed by Mongols. Kunya-Urgench was quickly restored its power after that defeat but in 1388 the army of Tamerlane, who saw the city as a competitor to Samarkand, destroyed it again. After that Kunya-Urgench got in oblivion until 1831 when people came there to build Khan- Yab canal. This is the reason why many great monuments of Kunya-Urgench have survived in poor condition; but some of them are practically intact and draw close attention of specialists and tourists.

The main places of interest in Kunya-Urgench are:

• The mausoleum of Nadzhimetdin Kubra ( the 12 th - 13 th centuries),
• The mausoleum of Mongolian princess Torebeg- Kh anym ( Turabekkhanum , the 12th - 14th centuries),
• The minaret of Mamun ( thw 10th - 11th centuries),
• The minaret of kutlug Timur ( the 12th - 14th centuries) - the highest minaret in Central Asia - its height is 67 m ,
• The mausoleum of Kyrkmollah ( the 2nd century B.C. - the 3rd century A.D. ,
• Ibn-Khadzhib madrasah (the 14th - 16th centuries),
• The mausoleum of Arskan II - the oldest building in the city (the 11th century),
• The mausoleums of Fakhr ad-Din Razi (the 1 3 th century),
• Azizan Al'-Ramatani (the 13th - 14th centuries),
• Seid Akhmed (the 12th - 14th centuries),
• Piryarveli ( the14th - 17th centuries),
• Guligerdan (the 12th century),
• Khorezimbag ( the 13th - 18th centuries),
• Dashgala ( the 14th - 16th centuries),
• Matkarim - Ishan ( the 19 th - 20 th centuries),
• Sultan Ali (1580),
• Tekesh - Khorezmshakh ( the 13 century ) with a minaret of the 14th century ,
• Dashmedzhet (1903-1908)
• Ak - Kala Fortress ( Akgala , the 1st - 13th centuries).

Atamurat (former Kerki) – ancient name of Zemm, was situated at the banks of Amudarya (Lebap region). Earlier mentioning of Zemm relates to beginning of VII century. In the town ruins of two archeological monuments have been left – “Bey Fortress” which was serving a residency for Kerki bey until 1917 and the other monument – “Russian Frotress” which was existing during the kushan-sasanid period. In the end of the XIX century a treasure of golden and silver coins was found.

Among them there were silver coins of the Sasanid tsar Varahran V (420-438). The sights of Ancient Zemm are mausoleums of Astan-Baba (unique complex structure that was reconstructed for many times) and Alamberdar

This unique city is located in the western Turkmenistan near the Caspian Sea. It stands in Misrian Valley - one of the most unusual places on the territory of Turkmenistan. There hasn't been any intensive construction activity; the soil there is not fertile so a lot of historical monuments have survived.

Dekhistan boasts its picturesque towers of ancient settlement s and 10th - 12th- century monuments as well as the most ancient mosque up the early Islamic period which stands on ancient entombment Mashat. This city is probably the most remote and isolated. Once it used to be a prospering medieval city standing on caravan routes between Khoresm and Persian Hyrcania.

Dekhistan is considered the most important medieval oasis in southwest part of Turkmenistan. From the 8th to14th century the city of Misrian (Misr or Messorian) stood on these lands. It reached its highest power during the rule of horezmshakh dynasty. The numerous ruins of various structures testify about its former majesty. Dekhistan was divided into fortified "shakhristan" (old area) with a citadel and "rabat" (residential and commercial quarters). Only well-known mausoleum Shir-Kabir ( the 11th - the 12th centuries), two 25-meter-high minarets, a cathedral mosque portal, the remains of clay city walls, the ruins of caravan serais and the mausoleums on Mashat necropolis have survived.

A few caravan serais located behind the fortification indicate the locations of several city gate s and the direction of caravan routes leading from city. The city has survived in a very poor condition and the majority of its structures are covered with the desert sands. However, due to the fact that there Firdausi wrote his well-known poem "Shakhname" the city has great historical and cultural value.

The former major trading center on the Great Silk Road between Nishapur and Merv, Serakhs lies in the middle of a small oasis in the upstream of the river Tedzhen. In the middle of the first millenary B.C. there stood the first settlement surrounded by a wall now called "Old Serakhs".

With the coming of Islam the city became one of the significant centers of trade; the local architects and builders became famous all over Central Asia . The city 's pride is the mausoleum of Abul-Fazul also known as the mausoleum of Serakhs - baba or Abul-Fazil-Guzi.

Constructed in the 11th - 12th centuries above the tomb of Muslim mystic Abul - Fazul it is famous for its magnificent proportions and the decor which put it in line with the most significant monuments of medieval architecture. The mausoleums of Yarti - Gyumbez (the 11th century) and Allamberdar (Al'mutasir ) of the 11th century are also worth seeing.

The ancient settlement Abiverd is one of eight historical reserves of Turkmenistan along with Kunya-Urgench, Nissa, Merv, Dakhistan etc.

The ruins of Abiverd are located between Ashgabat and Mary (in the vicinities of Kushka). Ancient Abiverd ( under different names - Baverd, Abaverd, Paart, Pavart, Peshtak) was one of the major centers of Northern Khurasan repeatedly mentioned in written sources as " … a city with fertile lands and rich crops, famous for its magnificent market and mosque".

At that time Abiverd was an impregnable fortress protecting the townspeople from the attacks of nomads. The fortress had the only gate from the southwest. Inside, in the center, next to the square there was a mosque erected in the early 15th century.

During the rule of Caliph Osman in the year of 652 Abiverd became the "apple of discord" for various Arabian caliphs. During the Abbasids Abiverd was under Khurasan. Abiverd was governed by such notorious dynasties as Takhirids, Saffarids, Samanids. In the 12th century Abiverd surrendered to Mongols. The eldest son of Ghengiz Khana - Tulikhan - literally razed the blossoming protected by powerful fortifications city to the ground. During Abiverd ruins examination it was established that in southeastern and northwestern parts of the city there were craftsmen quarters. In the central part of the city near the citadel various hand-made articles from metal and jewelry were found to prove that the city had tinkers' and jewelers' workshops. Various figurines testify about the high level of pottery and confirm that Abiverd was one of most the important commercial and crafts centers of Northern Khurasan.

Today Abiverd looks like a relatively small town and only smooth silhouettes of ancient structures quietly remind about its dramatic history, its former power and luxury.

Shehr-Islam - (Akhal velayat) is one of the largest handicraft centers of the Northern Khorasan of the Middle Ages (XI-XII). On the palace of the settlement first there was small fortress protecting agricultural oasis from attacks of nomads. Favorable geographic position on caravan way connecting Khorasan with Khorezm and other far countries caused rapid growth of population.

Judging from archeological data, people of Shehr-Islam achieved great successes in town building. There were many monumental constructions, which were decorated by ornamental bricks and carving. Besides, covered brick water pipeline was discovered there; it was unique hydrotechnical construction of the time with the length of 20 km with the help of which ancient town was supplied with water.

Geokdepe fortress - (Akhal velayat) was defensive construction of Akhal tekes. It was erected from 45 km to the North-West of Ashgabat in 1879 just before the attacks of Russian army (1879-1881). Its walls are earth embankment enclosed by a ditch and covered by a layer of clay. Their height was 4 m, thickness at foundation was 10 m and on the top it was 5 m. The whole perimeter was 4.4 km.

The territory of the fortress of 40 hectares was plane, only in the North-West corner there was old hill and southward there was enclosed yard and wells. During sieges of the fortress half of all inhabitants of an oasis gathered in it (about 45 thousand people). During the years of independence mausoleum of Abul Phazl in Sarahs, Talhatan-baba`s mosque in Iolotan etrap, minarets of Dehistan, mausoleum of Alamberdar in atamurat etrap and others have been saved from destruction and restored.

The territory of Turkmenistan nowadays, too causes particular interest of many archeologists, historians, because it keeps many unresolved mysteries. More than one decade will be needed for investigating numerous monuments of culture and history of Turkmen land.

Most tourists are attracted to Turkmenistan by the unique natural landmarks: tremendous flora - forests of wild fruit and nuts trees, juniper forests on mountain slopes, pistachio savanna forests, saxaul forests, flood-plain tugais; diverse fauna - Central Asian leopards, argalis, koulans, goitered gazelles; enchanting sceneries - from picturesque mountain ridges to lifeless desert sands, from green oases to multikilometer sea coast.

Amudarya State Reserve: founded in 1982 within Farab, Galkynysh and Darganata Etraps of Lebap Velayat.

The main goal of the reserve is the protection of tugais of the Amudarya river valley and of rare and endangered species living in and near the river, such as sturgeons (Pseudoscaphirhynchus hermanni and P. kaufmanni), reptiles {Phrynocephalus rossikowi, Al-sophylax loricatus), pheasant, red deer, Persian gazelle and others.

Its area is 49,500 hectares

Badghyz State Reserve: situated in the interfluves of the Kushka and Tejen Rivers (Mary Velayat). It was founded in 1941 to protect the whole natural complex of Badghyz Hills and, first of all, such species as kulan (Equus hemionus). The area of the reserve is 87,700 hectares.

3 Game reserves located in Badghyz State Reserve:

• Chemenibit;
• Gyzyljar;
• Pulkhatun.

Kaplankyr State Reserve: founded at the junction of borders of Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan in 1979 (Dashoguz Velayat) for the protection and restoration of the Houbara bustard (Chlamydotis undulata), waterfowl and waders, Ustyurt subspecies of urial, saiga, Persian gazelle, honey badger, kulan and other representatives of flora and fauna of the

Kaplankyr Hills and the neighboring territory of North Turkmenistan. The area of the reserve is 282,200 hectares.

Kopetdag State Reserve: founded in 1976 in the central part of the Kopetdag Ridge (Akhal Velayat).

The main objectives of the reserve include studying and protection of juniper, wild fruit trees, reptiles, birds, and mammals.

Its area is 49,700 hectares.

Koyten Dag Nature Reserve was created to protect the largest remaining Ibex populations in Central Asia. These long-horned mountains goats, as well as a significant number of Urials (Ovis ammon vignei), an endangered mountain sheep species, inhabit the steep canyons and flower covered valleys of the low ridges of the Koyten Dag Mountains, leading to Turkmenistan's tallest peak, Ayrybaba (3,137m).

Koyten Dag is also well-known for its "dinosaur plateau" with 438 well preserved fossilized dinosaur footprints, as well as for its caves, considered the most beautiful and interesting caves in the former Soviet Union. The mountain can be discovered via numerous climbing and trekking routes located along the entire ridge.

The Koytendag State Nature Reserve was founded in November, 1986, and is situated on the western slopes of the Koytendag Mountains, a spur of the Gissar range of the great Pamir-Alay mountain system. The territory of the Reserve is 27,139ha. The main aim of the Reserve's creation is the protection of the unique nature of the Kugitang mountain range and its bordering territories, and the development of sustainable ecosystems, in particular the protection of Capra falconeri (a very rare species of wild goat included in the Red Book of CITES).

The Koytendag region is located close to the border with Uzbekistan in the east of Turkmenistan. In this area one can see the Koytendag mountains, and peak Ayry Baba, the highest point in Turkmenistan at 3,137 m above sea level; the grandiose "Umbar Dere" canyon, with 28 m waterfalls; the plateau of Dinosaurs, with 438 fossilized Dinosaur footprints; the unique, hydrogen sulphate hot spring, "Gainar Baba"; "Kyrk gyz" canyon; and karst caves. The for a and fauna of Koytendag, are both unique: on the foothills of the Kopetdag mountains one can spot the spiral horned goat, a rare Buldiara species of mountainous ram.

The Repetek Nature Reserve is only a one hour journey (70km) from Turkmenabad; This sandy desert reservation, formed in 1912, it is located to the southwest of Turkmenabad, and is remarkable for its exhaustive information on the ancient nature of the Karakum desert and its climatic conditions.

There are large sand dunes, shifting sands and dry lake beds, attracting the attention of scientists to Repetek. The vegetation of Repetek is dominated by such small shrub species as saxaul (white and black), kandym, sand acacia and cherkez. The animal life of Repetek is also rich and diverse. There are almost 1.5 thousand species of invertebrates; including beetles, butterflies, spiders and other small creatures.

The Karakum desert only seems lifeless and dismal to one who has never been there. This is especially true in Repetek, one of the most interesting and thriving areas of the Karakum desert. The diversity of vegetation and animal life and magnificence of Repetek's landscapes captivates even the most experienced traveler. Not surprisingly, it was here that the first reserve in Turkmenistan was established almost eight decades ago. In 1979, at UNESCO's decision, the Repetek Reserve gained the status of "biosphere preserve" and thereby was inscribed in the list of internationally recognized models of natural ecosystems.

The unique nature of this region attracts many scientists' attention. Such eminent specialists as geneticist, Nikolai Ivanovich Vavilov, and the founder of contemporary soil science, Vasiliy Vasilyevich Dokuchaev, used to work in the Reserve. A Russian scientist and fiction writer, Vladimir Afanasyevich Obruchev, famous for his novels "The land of Sannikov" and "Plutonia" visited here, and dozens of other outstanding scientists and men of the arts stayed in the Reserve. Early last century, the famous geographer and traveler Pyotr Petrovich Semenov Tyan-Shanskiy was charmed by these places.

It couldn't be otherwise. Repetek is a place where in a relatively small area one can see practically all forms of the Karakum's sandy landscape which, by the way, are natural to other large and small deserts of the world. It turns out that the sandy landscape can be at times dune-like, ridge-like and hilly. It is impossible to enumerate all the possible variations. The part of the reserve carrying the appropriate name "Repetek Sahara" is particularly striking. Once you are there, you lose the feeling of reality. It is so engrossing. Dunes rise all around in quaintly stark waves, with their tops crowned by the thinnest yellow muslin - thousands of grains of sand disturbed by a gust of wind and stylishly lightened by bright sun rays. One can roam for hours in this fantastic realm of sand as if painted by an impressionist artist. No matter how big the dunes are, this is exactly the way the restless wind moves them from one place to another at its whim, sorting out these sand hills down to the last grain of sand. So, upon returning to this place, one may not recognize a seemingly well-known landscape. Over 200 species of birds can be seen in the very heart of the scorching Karakum. One surprising fact is that among them are waterfowl, attracted by reservoirs formed in the sandy quarries on the outskirts of Repetek. Such birds as saxaul jay, which is ideally adapted to the conditions of dry climates, cannot leave the desert. However, birds of prey are rightfully considered the most imposing and famous birds in Repetek. The golden eagle, one of the largest eagles in the world, has become the mascot of the Reserve. The saker falcon and long-legged buzzard also impress with their intimidating appearance. Watching the pigeon-size kestrel, a small but very deft hunter, is also interesting. Long-eared and horned owls become the masters of the skies at night.

Gnawing animals such as cheek-weeds, gophers, and jerboas are the most numerous among the mammals in Repetek. It is they who leave flowery patterns on the sand, restlessly recorded by environmental specialists.

Syunt-Khasardag State Reserve: founded in 1977 in the Southwest Kopetdag Mountains (Balkan Velayat) to protect and study wild congeners of cultivated plants, reptiles (cobra and blunt-nosed viper), birds (francolin, Tetraogallus caspius) and mammals (leopard, hyena, urial). Its area is 30,300 hectares..

Khazar State Reserve: situated on the southeast coast of the Caspian Sea (Balkan Velayat), founded in 1932 as an ornithological reserve. Its area is 269,000 hectares.

The Kughinang Mountains with the highest peak of Turkmenistan - Airibaba (3,137m). The Bolsoi (Big) Balkan is a mountain range in the Kara Kum Desert. There archeologists found the human remains of the Stone Age. The scenery of Mount Syunt is peculiar due to the rear plant species thickly covering its slopes. Red and orange canyons of Yuanghikala and Yyuanghusu are breathtaking indeed. In the vicinities of Makhtumkuli village stand the Lunar Mountains. These mountains look extremely strange: they have rounded sagged forms of pink-cream or grey - almost white colors which change their shades after a rain and depending on humidity shimmer with practically all colors of a rainbow … the Lunar Mountains look more like giant cakes than the landscape elements. It is an extremely rare occasion when you stumble upon accidental shrub which makes this "alien" scenery look a little more "earthy".

Lake Sarakamysh is the largest lake of Turkmenistan. Its area exceeds 2, 200 km. Sarakamysh natural reserve was made for protection of water fowl - pelicans, cormorants and coots. The well-known Bakharden Cave hosts an underground

Lake Kow-Ata: Kow-Ata Underground Lake is located in Baharly (formerly Bakharden) in the foothills of the Kopet-Dag Mountains (107 km west of Ashgabat). The Turkmen name Kow-Ata means "father of caves". At first glance, this underground area appears like a magnificent auditorium: the overall length of the cave is 230 m, its height reaches 20 m, and its width is at some points 57 m.

The bottom of the cave is covered with lumps of dissolved limestone (stalagmites), and its warm and gushing water is clear and emerald colored. Even under artificial lightning, tiny pebbles on the bottom can be seen. As you approach the lake, you will feel the air becoming damper and warmer. You can hear sounds like sighs or whispers above your head. These are the pigeons which inhabit the cave in great abundance.

The water has a constant temperature of 33-37°C. Chemical analysis has shown that the water contains a complex combination of chemical elements - over 30 of which have been found to date.

Lake Mollagara is a not drying saline. The water there is so salty that the human body is pushed onto the surface. The depth of the lake varies from 60 m up to 1.5 km depending on the season. There are located the world's famous therapeutic mud-baths.

Lake Yuazkhan is a closed freshwater lake in the Kara Kum Desert. There valuable breeds of fishes and water fowl found their home.

Lakes Archman, Berzengi, Bakharden are thermal springs of mineral hydrosulphuric groundwater. The latter are considered unique world famous natural landmarks. 60 m below Kov-Ata cave entrance there is a warm hydrosulphuric lake of 72 m length and 30 m width, with the area of 108 square meters. The average depth is 10 m. The water temperature is +37 ° С. The lake is very attractive due to its turquoise water and therapeutic properties.

Crater Lake Rozoviy (Pink) Porsyghel is of mud-volcanic origin. It is known mainly due to the fact that its pink colored waters cover the conduit of the ancient mud volcano. Not far from it on the western slopes of Chokrak plateau there is Crater Lake Zapadniy (Western) Porsyghel with salty and hot water of dirty-grey color. Truly amazing are such thermal sources as Archman,Parkhai,Ovezbaba, Khodzhakainar and sub thermal spring Edzheri.

One of the most beautiful waterfalls of the country is the Bolshoi (Big) Nokhur waterfall. The water is falling from 30 m height. Equally beautiful are the Koshtemir, Umbadere and Kyrkghyz waterfalls. There are other waterfalls in the north part of the country, for example, the Kyrkdeshk Rapids with a canyon to the north of Lake Sarykamysh.

Mount Bayuadag hosts about 40 hot, warm and cold springs with various water formulas.

Kara Bogaz Gol is a huge sea basin stretching to the north and the west. In one of gorges of Sumbar Valley is located a picturesque Gochdemir waterfall with crystal-like waters falling like shimmering openwork curtain.

Turkmenistan is a country with ancient culture which is a part of the world civilization. One of the major sights of the country is the Main National Museum built after getting Independence. Total area of the museum is 15 thous. sq. m.

Turkmenistan is a country with ancient culture which is a part of the world civilization. One of the major sights of the country is the Main National Museum built after getting Independence. Total area of the museum is 15 thous. sq. m. The museum has got tens of hand-made monuments of traditional art related to 17-19 centuries. You can see works of weaving, embroidery, ceramics, carpet weaving, etc. The most popular works are those of home weaving – carpets, national clothes made from keteni. It is the most popular type of traditional art for Turkmen women at present time as well. Presented exhibitions of national clothes are differed by patterns of different versions related to tribes coming from the Turkmen history. The major place in the exhibition of Ancient world is given to exhibits found in Altin-Depe where the archeologist Masson Vadim Mikhaylovich was conducting archeological excavations.

The main collection of archeological materials includes findings of the 20 century.

Total number of exhibits is 2500. The Introduction exhibition is dedicated to the history of creating Independent Neutral Turkmenistan. You can see here the National Emblem, Flag and Anthem of the state.

The main goal of the museum is to become a center of information not only a storage place for material culture. A separate section is devoted to the life and work of the President of Turkmenistan, Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedov. The attributes of the inauguration of the head of state - white felt rug, national table-close made of camel wool and quiver with arrows, symbolizing the ancient blessing for good deeds, well-being and prosperity, unity and cohesion of the people are displayed in special glass cases.

Administrative offices are located on the third floor of the new museum with storages, restoration departments and laboratories in the basement.

The Museum of Carpet in Ashgabat is unique by its gathered collection up to eight thousand handmade best works of all times the oldest from which is related to 17 century. The most valuable exhibit of the museum is a carpet called “Turkmen Kalbi (Turkmen Heart)” created in 1941-1942 with the area 193.5 sq. m.

The other carpet, the largest one, named as “Golden Age” with area 301 sq. m. was created to honor of the 10th anniversary of Independence of Turkmenistan by 40 carpet weavers over 8 months and this work is included in the Genius Record Book as the largest in the world carpet work. The second floor of the museum present modern carpet works collected from all provinces of the country.

The Museum of visual arts is one of the biggest storage places of national values of Turkmenistan. It has collection of popular and also new national artists, sculptures, ceramics and jewelers. The collection presents all styles and trends of modern visual and applied arts.

Also the museum exhibits samples of house facilities related to 19-20 centuries and traditional national clothes. Here you can see stone pots with pictures serving as decoration of houses of ancient Yilginli and which were restored by restorers from Saint-Pittsburgh.

The museum of «Ak Bugdai» (white wheat) was built in the place called Annaw in the vicinity of Ashgabat where in 1904 archeological expedition under the leadership of Rafael Pampelli found the seeds of five thousand years old white wheat.

The whole history of Turkmen agronomy is be displayed in the museum. The seeds of wheat found almost hundred years ago by archeologists are stored in a special golden box.

In July of 2004 on the eve of the official opening of the museum and «Galla Bayramy» (celebration of wheat) festivities and archeological finding of hundred years old ancient Turkmen seed an international conference on the issues of the origin of «Ak bugdai» wheat, its role and importance in the life of Turkmen people was held in Ashgabat.

Mary museum of local history is situated in the administrative center of the city Mary. It is a white marbled three-story building built providing all conditions for keeping and demonstrating unique exhibits. It has equipped six exhibition halls, conference hall, offices, storages and restoration cabinets.

The museum has got over 40 thous. exhibits – pictures of history, eastern graphical works, ceramic, sculptures, ancient national clothes, Turkmen carpets, silver jewelry, home items, musical instruments, old guns, ancient manuscripts, all kinds of Mary flora and fauna.

A unique collection of archeological findings is exhibited in the separate hall and includes exhibits of Ancient Margush with the age of over 4 thous years. Professor Viktor Sarianidi has handed over a box, one of last findings, decorated with mosaic from elephant bone date 2 thous. BC to the museum of Mary.

The National Museum of Geoktepe, devoted to the history of the 1881 Geoktepe battle, was built in Geoktepe district of Akhal province. It is a three-storey white marble museum building, topped with a turquoise-colored dome matching the color of Geoktepe Mosque domes.

The museum consists of two exhibitions - military history and ethnography. One of the main exhibits is a 19.4 m long and 7 m high diorama of the Geoktepe battle painted by the teachers of the Turkmen State Specialized Art School at the State Academy of Fine Arts of Turkmenistan based on the project prepared by young artist Mohammed Babayev. Combining a scenic painting, which captures one of the moments of the battle at the walls of the Geoktepe fortress, close views of subjects, special lighting and "smoke" effects the diorama recreates the midst of a battle, when all the residents of Geoktepe, from small to large, showed strong resistance to the superior strength of the enemy army.

A Museum of ethnography and local history, which is part of the main complex of the Main Museum of Turkmenistan, was opened in Ashgabat on 18 May.

The exposition of the Museum of ethnography and local history provides a vivid picture of the lifestyle of the Turkmen people, their culture and the nature of Turkmenistan in all its diversity.

The famous archaeologist, winner of the International Prize named after Makhtumkuli, doctor of historical sciences, Professor Victor Sarianidi was invited to the opening ceremony of the Museum as a guest of honor. There was also organized an exhibition of new discoveries made by Victor Sarianidi's Margiana archeological expedition in Gonur-Depe.